Step-by-Step Build + Cost Breakdown
We are out here having a 90’s summer on a $90 budget, and that means I’m building things before I’m buying them. I wanted a cornhole set for the yard, and when I looked at what custom sets were going for (hello, $400?!), I decided there was absolutely no reason I couldn’t make my own.
And spoiler: I did. In 3 days for just over $100. And honestly? They look like a professional set!
If you’ve been on the fence about trying a new DIY, this is your sign. Two years ago I never would have thought I could pull something like this off. Now here we are, with a full regulation cornhole set in the front yard. Your kids will thank you someday…probably at college. 😂
Materials & Tools Needed
Materials:
- 1×4 pine boards (for the frame)
- 3/4″ plywood sheets
- Hex Bolts
- Washers
- Nuts
- 220-grit sandpaper
- Pre-stain wood conditioner
- Dark Walnut stain
- White paint
- Bean bags (I got these cute Americana ones!)
Tools:
- Jigsaw
- Drill
- Pocket-Hole Jig
- Orbital Sander
- Miter Saw or Circular Saw
- Painter’s Tape
- Tape Measure
- 6″ foam roller
- 2″ angle brush
Want the exact cut list, dimensions, and hardware specs? Grab the full build plans HERE. They include everything you need to build these start to finish!
Step 1: Cut Your Tops + Mark the Holes
You’ll start with two pieces of 3/4″ plywood cut to regulation cornhole size. Most home improvement stores will cut these for you, which makes this step really easy.
Once you have your tops, you’ll mark and cut a 6″ diameter hole on each board. Placement matters here — the full measurements and tips for getting a perfectly centered circle are included in the build plans!
Pro tip: Put painter’s tape over the cut area before you jigsaw — it helps prevent tearout and gives you a much cleaner edge.
Step 2: Build the Frame
The frame is made from 1×4 pine boards cut down to a few different lengths. You’ll use a pocket-hole jig to drill pocket holes, then assemble the frame and attach it to the underside of your plywood top.
Step 3: Add the Folding Legs
This was my favorite part of the whole build because — storage. 🙌 Nobody wants to trip over cornhole boards all summer.
Each board gets a pair of support legs that fold flat underneath when you’re not playing. The legs are cut with a slight angle on one end and a rounded bottom so they can pivot in and out easily. They attach with a single bolt on each side.
Quick tip: Leave a small gap between the leg and the frame when you bolt it on. It makes folding so much easier.
Step 4: Sand + Stain
Now for the satisfying part. Here’s the staining process I used:
- Sand with 220-grit sandpaper on all surfaces and edges
- Apply pre-stain wood conditioner — let dry about 1 hour
- Apply Dark Walnut stain — let dry about 1 hour
- Apply polyurethane top coat with a foam roller — let dry 1–2 hours
The semigloss finish is actually part of the official cornhole rules, so this step does double duty — looks amazing and keeps you regulation-ready. 😄
Step 5: Paint Your Design
This step is completely optional, but I obviously couldn’t stop at plain stained wood. I went full neutral Americana and have zero regrets.
I did two designs — one with stripes (easy and fast!) and one with stars (a little more patience required, but SO worth it). The secret to both is the painter’s tape. Those crisp lines? All tape. To make the stars, I printed out a template online and cut it out to create a stencil — I made them 6″ tall. Then, space them evenly on the board to create a pattern and trace each star using the stencil. I did three coats of white paint on the stars board and waited until each coat was completely dry before pulling the tape.
The star tracing process took me about an hour and a half, but the reveal when you pull that tape was SO satisfying.
Cost Breakdown 💰
| Item | Cost |
|---|---|
| Plywood sheets | ~$58 |
| 1×4 pine boards | ~$20 |
| Hardware (bolts, washers, nuts) | ~$8 |
| Bean bags | ~$45 |
| Total Cost: | ~$130 |
(My inspo set was $400. I’m in on this for just over $100. So definitely a good deal! Keep in mind that I already had stain, paint, and tools, so be prepared for those additional costs.)
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What kind of plywood should I use? A: I used birch plywood for the tops and pine 1x4s for the frame. They take stain really similarly, which keeps the look consistent.
Q: Do I need to seal the boards? A: Yes, especially if they’ll be outside! A semigloss polyurethane protects against moisture and wear and will make your boards last much longer.
Q: Are these regulation size? A: Yes! The full dimensions in the build plans are official regulation specs.
Q: How long does this build take? A: About 3 days for me, though the actual hands-on time is closer to one full day. The longest part is the star tracing and taping. If you go with stripes only, you can knock this out in a day easily.
Q: Where do I find all the measurements and cut details? A: All of that is in the full build plans here! They include the complete cut list, dimensions, hardware specs, and step-by-step diagrams.
Watch on Instagram:
Part 1:
Part 2:
Final Thoughts
I cannot tell you how happy these boards make me every time I walk out the front door. They look custom, they’re regulation size, they fold flat for storage, and I built them for a fraction of what a store-bought set would cost.
But the thing I’m most proud of is this: two years ago I never would have thought I could do something like this. If you’ve been sitting on a project idea, just go for it. You’re going to surprise yourself. 💪
If you build these, please tag me on Instagram at @lizpacini — I would absolutely love to see them and cheer you on!
Interested in more DIYs?
Check out my step-by-step build and cost breakdown for a custom coffee table!
